Tenth Doctor Brown Suit Analysis – Jacket Back

Upper Back

Oddly, right from the beginning of his era, the 10th Doctor’s brown suit jackets had two subtly different back styles.

The first had the upper center back seam between two pinstripes, with the two back pieces cut on a slight diagonal (so the pinstripes were angled slightly downward toward center in a V-shape, instead of vertically).

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x1 "New Earth"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x8 "The Impossible Planet"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x12 "Army of Ghosts"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
3x0 "The Runaway Bride"

The other style had the upper center back seam on a pinstripe, with the two back pieces apparently cut so the pinstripes draped vertically:

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x7 "The idiot's Lantern"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x4 "The Girl in the Fireplace"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x8 "The Impossible Planet"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x1 "Partners in Crime"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x7 "The Unicorn and the Wasp"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x10 "Midnight"

The difference between the two back designs is more easily observed when they’re side by side:

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
3x0 "The Runaway Bride"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x7 "The Idiot's Lantern"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x8 "The Impossible Planet"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x7 "The Idiot's Lantern"

Unlike the different collar styles, the contrasting styles of the backs didn’t appear to simply be a case of early version/later version of the suit, since both styles were consistently seen throughout Tennant’s first season.

However, the second style back, appears to have been the preferred one; I never directly observed the first style after the season three, whereas the second style lasted through the remainder of Tennant’s era (including his appearance in “The Day of the Doctor”).

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x13 "Journey's End"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
5x04 "The End of Time (part 1)"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
8x01 "The Day of the Doctor"

Also note that both versions of the brown suit had a tapered backs, as tailored jacks often do. (That is, the center back seam line was taken in via a gentle curve moving downward toward the waist and small of the back.)

Lower Back

The lower back of the 10th Doctor’s brown suit jacket had a single vent at the center back, with the back left overlapping the back right by four pinstripes past the fold (which was, itself, on a pinstripe).

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
3x0 "The Runaway Bride"

It is worth noting, however, that at least one of his brown suit jackets’ vents might have had a narrower overlap, but it’s difficult to say for sure …

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x7 "The idiot's Lantern"

At the top of the back vent was a waistband, which was self-fabric cut on the crossgrain (i.e. the pinstripes were horizontal).

It spanned the entire back, from one side/back panel seam to the other, and it was simply edge-stitched onto the back of the jacket body along the upper and lower edges.

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
5x02 "Planet of the Dead"

This back waistband was a nice touch for a suit based on one from the 1930s.

You can see similar back waistbands on other garments in projects which take place during that era, such as Indiana Jones’ and Belloq’s jackets in Raiders of the Lost Ark (which took place in 1937):

The back waistband appears to have been cut with unusually large seam allowance – something in the neighborhood of 1″, as evidenced by the impressions in the screencaps below:

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x12 "Stolen Earth"

The back waistband was positioned slightly higher than the “faux-flap” pockets.

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x13 "Doomsday"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x10 "Midnight"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
5x04 "The End of Time (part 1)"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
8x01 "The Day of the Doctor"

On every brown suit jacket I observed, the back waistband was a consistent height of approximately four (horizontal) pinstripes, with the upper and lower edges being between pinstripes for some reason … curious, considering the same approximate height could have been achieved with the upper and lower edges being on pinstripes …

10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x1 "New Earth"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x7 "The Idiot's Lantern"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x8 "The Impossible Planet"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
2x13 "Doomsday"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
3x0 "The Runaway Bride"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
3x2 "The Shakespeare Code"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x1 "Partners in Crime"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
4x2 "The Fires of Pompeii"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
5x02 "Planet of the Dead"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
5x04 "The End of Time (part 1)"
10th Doctor brown suit jacket back
8x01 "The Day of the Doctor"
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