FABRIC and TRIM
Maroon moleskin = 3 yards
The original frock coat was allegedly made from cotton moleskin that may have been subsequently discontinued, so I suggest using whatever “substitute” fabric you prefer.
- Black Persian lamb fur = 1 yard
Depending on your budget, authentic Persian lamb fur may be prohibitively rare and/or expensive; for the frock coat in this tutorial, I used a synthetic substitute from Mood Fabrics:
Maroon lining = 3 yards
For the frock coat in this tutorial, I used “Winter Red” viscose rayon twill lining (product/shade #507-50780) from The Lining Company.
⅜” black trim = 6 yards
As of the writing of this tutorial, I have a supply of trim that looks spot-on to the original available by-the-yard:
This same trim is also used for Eleven’s velvet waistcoat.
If you’re making the “Snowmen” costume ensemble, 12 yards should be enough trim for both garments.
Mediumweight hair canvas = 1 yard
French canvas interfacing = ½ yard
Undercollar felt/melton = ¼ yard
Fusible hair canvas = 1 yard
Fusible interfacing = 1 yard
I like to use Pellon “Shape-flex” (SF101), because it’s 100% cotton, inexpensive, and easy to find.
Cotton flannel or batting = ½ yard
This will be used for the upper chest area.
I just used plain black cotton flannel, but you can use whatever color or print you like (and feel free to have some fun with this).
Lightweight cotton batting (such as that pictured to the right) also works fine.
Pocketing = 1 yard
Either of the options below should work well:
Black & Sons T401 “Deluxe Polyester/Cotton Pocketing”
Alternatively, a lightweight cotton fabric such as muslin or quilting cotton will work fine.
NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, etc.
1 spool of maroon thread
- 1 spool of black thread
Maroon waxed thread
You can buy regular thread and wax it yourself, or you can buy pre-waxed thread.
I use waxed silamide (2-ply nylon) thread from Wawak Sewing Supplies:
While it works wonderfully, it can be annoying to unwind from the cardboard skein.
Cotton basting thread
I use and recommend #40 basting thread, also from Wawak Sewing Supplies:
⅜” cotton twill tape
A single spool/roll should last for many, many projects like this!
12x ¼” or ⅝” black floral buttons
Without better visual references, it’s difficult to determine exactly what buttons were used on the frock’s lower sleeves and trim accents; here are the ones I used for the frock in this tutorial:
- 2x 2” black hussar toggles
1 pair of shoulder pads
For the best results, I recommend either making your own custom shoulder pads, or using pre-made pads such as those available from B. Black and Sons:
(For shoulders with average slope, I suggest using the 6-ply pads. Increase or decrease the loft of the shoulder pad accordingly for sloped or square shoulders.)
1 pair of sleeve heads
Sleeve heads are easy enough to make on your own, but I find it more convenient to simply use pre-made ones, such as those available from B. Black and Sons:
