FABRIC
- Brown/black check = 2 yards of 60” fabric or 3 yards of 44” fabric
The original trousers were allegedly made with a cashmere fabric no longer available, so I suggest using whatever brown/black check fabric you like.
I recommend using a woven check fabric instead of a printed one (see right), but the choice is yours.
For my personal trousers (demonstrated in this tutorial), I used a cotton homespun fabric from Hobby Lobby:
However, the color wasn’t quite dark enough, so I overdyed it using the fiber-reactive “Brazilnut” from Dharma Trading Company.
The final result lacks the subtle maroon undertones woven into the original, but in context of the entire costume, I believe it puts out the right vibe.
Special thanks to Daniel Pawlik for the reference swatch!
If you’re interested in learning to dye fabric, I am tentatively planning to produce a Tailors Gone Wild fabric-dyeing course, which will be specifically for aspiring costumers and cosplayers.
I suggest subscribing to my “Sewing Wizard Newsletter” for updates. 🙂
Lightweight contrast fabric = 1 yard
This is for the fly and internal waistband facings. I used a dark brown lightweight cotton fabric.
Fusible interfacing = 1 yard
I like to use Pellon “Shape-flex” (SF101), because it’s 100% cotton, inexpensive, and easy to find.
Pocketing = 1 yard
Either of the options below should work well:
Black & Sons T401 “Deluxe Polyester/Cotton Pocketing”
Alternatively, a lightweight cotton fabric such as muslin or quilting cotton will work fine.
ACCESSORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, etc.
1 spool of black thread
- 1 spool of contrast thread (optional)
½” nylon stay tape
Cotton twill stay tape is more common and will work fine, but in this case I prefer to use the nylon stay tape because the bulk it adds is negligible.
- Six ¾” buttons
- Six suspender buttons
2 yards of 1 ½” Ban Roll
This is to help provide structure for the trousers waistband.
¼” double-fold bias binding (optional)
Simply serging the edges of your trousers’ waistband facing is faster and more convenient, but I chose to bind these edges with contrasting bias tape, to give the trousers a little more pizazz.
